Building a Faunette:
Amplified Sound Alternative

Instead of computer speakers, you can use a car stereo amplifier and car stereo speakers. The advantage here is that both components are designed to be mounted with screws. The disadvantage is that there are more parts, and you have to run the amplifier power directly off the battery and not the inverter. Therefore, you need more wires. The method is preferred for rugged longevity. The computer speakers are recommended for those of you trying to simplify things. Mounting computer speakers might prove to be harder than working with these two components.

Car Stereo Amplifier

Get something in the lower to middle range as far as power is concerned. This takes the signal from the earphone jack and amplifies it to make great volume. The stronger the amplifier is, the less you will have to turn the volume level up on the TV and thus not overwork the TV’s amplifier.

It needs to have two audio input jacks, one left channel and one right (stereo). It needs a “remote” port so it can be powered on/off when needed. These units generally have mounting holes in the housing that can be used to screw them into the faunette cabinet. Mounts with screws.

Where to buy: Car audio stores, electronics stores. Price: $75–$100

Car Stereo Speakers (2)

These run from the amplifier to produce your sound, Use two speakers (two 6- × 9-inch, 4 ohm work well). Your amplifier can handle more powerful speakers if you choose. Comes with cut-out pattern and mounts with screws.

Where to buy: Car audio stores, auto parts stores, electronics stores. Price: $35 and up

Accessories

1. Spool of automotive 12-gauge wire.
2. Stereo speaker wire. Four feet total length.
3. Electrical toggle switch with the highest amp rating possible (30 amp). (Available at auto or electronics stores.)
4. Auto electrical crimp connectors (for speaker ports and toggle switch).
5. Special battery post hook-ups (2) for wing nut on stud posts. You can screw and lock onto these extra battery terminals. This is to power the amplifier.

Wiring

The amplifier works on DC power so it must be connected directly to the battery. Cut the spool of 12-gauge wire into three equal pieces. Remove one inch of insulation from one end of each. Insert these ends into the positive (+), negative (−), and “remote” ports. The remote port wire runs to the toggle switch, which turn on and off the power. From the toggle, the wire continues down to the positive battery post along with the positive (+) wire. The wires are secured to the battery using special circular battery terminal connectors for the wing nut/bolt posts. Always hook up the positive (+) side first to avoid potential shock. Run the stereo wire from the audio output jacks left and right to both the top and bottom speakers. Split the wire and strip both ends. The ends going to the speakers need electrical crimp-on connectors. Plug the RCA phono jacks end of the sound filter into the audio input ports of the amplifier.

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